Anther: A Delightful ‘Flower’ Blooming in Agias Irinis Square

There are restaurants that try to impress you with exaggerations. Others rely on simplicity, hoping the taste will do the job. Anther, the new venture of the Perianth hotel in Agias Irinis Square, doesn’t belong to either category – and that’s the first good sign. Located on the ground floor of the hotel, facing the much-suffered-from-works Agias Irinis Square, this elegantly named restaurant (from the word anther, the part where the flower’s pollen resides) combines artistic concerns with culinary ambitions. The space, meticulously designed by architectural studio En-route, speaks the language of restrained design. The central terrazzo bar, wooden chairs, color tones, carefully studied natural light diffusion through the peripheral glass doors which ceremonially open and connect the interior with the plaza – all hint at an experience that begins before the dish reaches the table. Clearly, Anther, deeply rooted in contemporary Greek identity, aims to offer more than just food. It interprets gastronomy as a whole of sensations and cultural references – taste blends harmoniously with design, light, and the vibrancy of the square. The menu is crafted by chef Nasso Tsironikou, experienced in Mediterranean cuisine and modern techniques. The ingredients are organic and seasonal wherever possible. From there begins a dialogue between the past and present of Greek cuisine: the chef doesn’t play with words but with memories, creating three menus for each hour of the day, filled with suggestions that personally remind us of our childhood summer vacations in the village. Anther’s breakfast (available to both hotel guests and external visitors) includes handmade pastries, cereal bars without unnecessary sweeteners, acai bowls, and a wide variety of egg preparations. While the approach is abundant, the taste codes remain consistently familiar, so nothing surprises you. Balance between freshness and technique characterizes the all-day brunch and lunch menu. Standouts include the salad with aged anthotyro, chicken with Aegina pistachios, tender grilled beef rib with yogurt acidity highlighting its fat, and the fish of the day with chickpea stew offering depth of flavor and good balance of spices. However, things get interesting in the evening: the kitchen picks up speed, and the dishes you’ll try are more structured. The perfectly roasted pork with sweet potato puree avoids preachy healthiness, while the Kerkyra bourdeto with sun-dried tomatoes and basil is particularly delightful for warm summer nights. The eggs with staka and panisse, served with bollici bread and youvetsi with ox tail, almost rustic in spirit but urban in presentation, easily earns its place as the signature dish. The desserts, concluding the story, avoid excessive confectionery showmanship, with the light olive oil crumble with avocado mousse and seasonal fruits standing out for its pleasant texture and playful disposition. All these are served on fine custom-made serveware by Valinia Svoronou. Finally, the cocktails match the seriousness of the food: Rum Hot is multi-layered with a lingering spice sensation, and Spicy Pomegranate stands out for its complexity. For mocktails, Rose Temple with blackberries and rhodonerum offers the most complete and suitable summer option – delicate composition and not overly sweet. Overall, the aesthetic experience is completed by the custom uniforms of the elegant staff by Angelos Bratis and the lighting-poem by Eleftheria Deko. Yes, you’ll return here because Anther combines the old with the new, art with taste, and urban culture. And always, the blue-pink wall painting Blossoms Blossoming by Athenian artist Eleni Bagaki will welcome you like an old friend. Limpona 2 & Vasilevous, Hotel “Perianth”, Ag. Irinis Sq., tel. 214-6878080, cost €45 – €65 per person (excluding drinks).