The final stop on our journey through Crete’s wineries shared a powerful, unifying thread: the unmistakable presence of Cretan women — their strength, grace, and vision echoing both in the vineyards and in every glass we raised.
Stop 1: Amargiotakis Winery – The ‘Captainess’ of Dafnes
We began in Dafnes, near Heraklion, at the Amargiotakis Boutique Winery. As we drove there, I told my companion Katerina that we’d be meeting Eleftheria — whom I’d first encountered at the Athens Wine Exhibition. In my mind, I’d imagined her as formidable — but as the old saying goes, “Eat a big bite before you speak too much.” What followed was one of the most delightful conversations of the day: an easy, heartfelt exchange on the winery’s magical balcony overlooking Dafnes, with Eleftheria joined by her husband Manolis, the estate’s winemaker.
Their flagship wine, Kapetanissa (‘The Captainess’), is more than a label — it’s a tribute to Cretan women who shoulder immense responsibility and lead with quiet determination. It’s a fitting homage to Eleftheria herself.
What to try:
• Kapetanissa Rosé: A vibrant off-dry blend of Liatiko and Moschato Spinas. Its eye-catching label draws you in — but it’s the layered aromas of red berries, citrus zest, and wild herbs that linger long after the last sip.
• Thrapsothiri: Their award-winning single-varietal expression of the indigenous Thrapsothiri grape — elegant, expressive, and deeply rooted in place.
Stop 2: Paterianakis Estate – Balance and Honeyed Aromas in Melisses
Next, we headed to Melisses — a village within the PDO Peza zone — to visit the family-run Paterianakis Estate. There, sisters Emmanouela and Nikē Paterianaki welcomed us. Emmanouela, the winemaker, champions balance above all: minimal intervention, deep respect for each grape variety, and a commitment to letting terroir speak clearly. Nikē, meanwhile, oversees the visitor experience — warm, engaging, and passionate about sharing their wines with authenticity and joy.
From the estate’s stunning terrace, olive groves and own vineyards stretch across the hills. Their emblem — a bee — pays homage to Melisses (which means “bees” in Greek), and their wine series Melissokipos (“Bee Garden”) reflects this connection. Unsurprisingly, honey and beeswax are recurring aromatic notes across their portfolio.
What to try:
• Melissokipos White: An exceptionally well-balanced, fresh blend of Thrapsothiri and Sauvignon Blanc — crisp, floral, and subtly honeyed, with bright acidity and lingering minerality.